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washingtonpost.com: Hee Been

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|6231 Little River Turnpike, Alexandria, Va.
(703) 941-3737

Hours of Operation and Prices
Lunch: M-F 11:30-2:30; Entrees: $7-$8
Dinner: M-Th 2:30-11, F 2:30-11:30, Sat 11-11:30, Sun 11-10; Entrees: $10-$18

Other Information
• All major credit cards
• Reservations accepted
• Dress: casual
• Free parking lot
• Handicapped Accessible

Most restaurants become less ethnic over time, accommodating to American tastes and ways. Hee Been is the opposite. Its waitresses - dressed in gauzy silk, embroidered gowns - are these days less likely to speak enough English to explain the food, and much of the menu is not translated. Thus you have to guess whether the noodles are cold or hot, thick or thin, and whether you will get your barbecued short ribs already cooked or have the fun of cooking them yourselves.

That difficulty is balanced by the fact that Hee Been offers gracious service, bargain prices and a long list of intriguing Korean and Japanese dishes. If you don't know much about Korean food, you can make a memorable meal of just the barbecues. Short ribs are marinated in sweetened soy and garlic, cut off the bone and snipped into small tender squares. There's thinly sliced beef bulgogi, and pork either mild or spicy. Chicken, squid, fish, tongue, shrimp - many things are barbecued here. They come with a cup of miso soup and about 10 little dishes of condiments: kim chee, marinated bean sprouts, sesame spinach, and such. You also get leaves of lettuce and a sweet, thick bean sauce to spread on the lettuce before you wrap your meat and condiments into it. The meal ends with orange slices and a cup of cold, cinnamon-flavored buckwheat tea with three pine nuts afloat in it. Beyond barbecues, you can venture into bibim baps - rice bowls topped with meat and vegetables or even raw fish for you to toss together - or julienned raw beef with slivered pears, sesame and hot-sweet seasonings. You can explore the soup-stews, the vinegary and spicy, thin and wiry buckwheat noodle dishes, even that old standby, sushi.

The restaurant fills up early, often with families. Observe their tables for lessons in what to order and how to deal with the components of these complex and fascinating meals.

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Tobi Tarwater

Update: 2024-07-22